The Fife Coast, Scotland, May 2024

This was very nearly the holiday that wasn't meant to be! I'd booked the pitch texting on a mobile phone a few months earlier, on the understanding that the owner would be in touch nearer the date of the visit. Given that our mobile phone connection is so unreliable I rarely, if ever use a mobile phone. But for some reason, on the eve of our trip I decided to pick up my mobile phone to check for messages. The first one was from the campsite owner asking for the payment of our pitch fees some seven days previously, with a second message asking whether we were still interested in holidaying there. I then, immediately set too paying the amount due, and notified the owner that I had done so. I received the reply that she had cancelled our booking! After a bit of a panic, and an apologetic text we were back on course with our booking to the Bankhead Farm Campsite, just outside Crail, https://tinyurl.com/428m4vz8 .

The next morning we were up and about early as the journey to Crail was to take us about three and a half hours. We eventually got going at 11.00am, hoping to arrive mid afternoon. Most of the trip involved travelling on the M74, but the trip got interesting when we crossed the Queensferry Crossing with both the Forth Road and Rail bridges in the background https://tinyurl.com/ym5hk6sj .

The rest of the trip was uneventful and we pulled into the campsite shortly after three, and were greeted by Carol, the very attentive and helpful owner. She walked us over to our pitch, where we quickly set too hooking up to the electrics and switching the gas on. We were under a bit of time pressure as I had booked an evening meal at the Bank Hotel in Anstruther https://www.thebank-anstruther.co.uk, and we needed to catch a bus to get there. Not wanting to miss the bus we were at the bus stop, just at the campsite gateway, with a quarter of an hour to spare.

The road that passes the site is quite busy with vehicles travelling at speed, which upset Finn a little, as they were feet away from him. After a wait the bus arrived and within minutes we were at the harbour in Anstruther, with the assistance of a fellow bus passenger who insisted on walking us towards the Bank Hotel. Finn hampering our progress depositing his necessaries on the road, a bin was needed before we entered the Bank. Leaving our new friend behind us we entered the Bank, and were swiftly shown our table. Before our meal Sue sampled a local lager and I sampled a real ale. The food was very good, and the service was of an equal high standard. After our meal we decided to explore the harbour more, and retraced our steps back there. After walking along, taking pictures, looking for a pub we stumbled across the Ship Tavern https://theship-tavern.co.uk which was the only pub on the harbour. As a result it was very busy, and very noisy (one of Finn's hates). We sat at the front looking over the harbour until it was time for the bus home.

Once back at the site we settled down for a quiet night, with Sue checking to see whether there was another show of the Northern Lights.

The next day the weather was good again ( I have a knack of picking good weather for our breaks), and our plans were to visit the East Pier Smokehouse in St Monans https://www.eastpier.co.uk for lunch, and, as we'd failed to bring any food for breakfast, we were hungry.

Again, eager not to miss the bus we were at the bus stop by the gate early, having to wait for a while for our transport. It arrived on time and we settled down for the longer journey than the previous evening. We had set off early to give us time to explore before our booking, but the extra time we had given ourselves was wasted when we stupidly overshot our bus stop destination, and had to wait for, in excess of, an half hour for a bus to take us back. We were less than happy!

The bus snakes through Anstruther, and stops twice on the harbour there, and we were expecting a similar experience in St Monans, where the bus only stops by a housing development on the main road that passes the town.

Happily deposited back at St Monans we asked a fellow passenger the way to the harbour, and followed the way down the wynds to find ourselves on a picture postcard harbour. Now we were bordering on being late for our booking so we headed straight for the restaurant. It has a strange layout, with a small shop cum reception, where smoked goods/ice creams etc were on sale. Further down the side of the building are some steps up to a roof top dining area, both inside and outside. We were not allowed in this area as we had Finn with us, and we were directed to a wooden gazebo a little further along. The views from the restaurant over the harbour and the sea were amazing, it really is a stunning location. The food is also very good, which explains why it was not possible to obtain an evening booking, given it's popularity.

As we were eating our meal we got into conversation with a lovely Scottish couple, who were equally fond of their food, and had explored many of the places we had. Whilst we were talking I was covetting the breaded scallops they were eating, and I was enjoying the wonderful aroma of the fish and garlic. Again, I'd ordered the wrong dish! I was enjoying a local craft cider with my lunch, and more than one was called for! A cider takeaway was in order.

After the meal we walked the entire harbour before our minds turned to the need to catch a bus back, we had no timetable, and the bus stop we had been dropped off at was nothing other than a gap in the roadside vegetation. We retraced our steps up the wynds back to the main road, and waited for an age for the bus back. I think we waited longer for buses that day than we did on any of our activities. I was keen to get back in good time as I had plans for a takeaway tea, a Chinese, as Carol had provided takeaway menus from businesses that delivered to the site.

Eventually a bus did turn up, which dropped us off at the site gate. I did not waste any time ordering my meal, again Sue going without. I set up my table and chair outside and tethered Finn to the ground and sat awaiting my tea. It appeared in half of the time that I was given. I washed the Chinese down with my craft cider, and tidied my plate and the packaging, to ensure there was no evidence of my greed.

Carol, and her associates knew the takeaway driver, and he brought the meal direct to the pitch!

Fully satisfied with the day we settled down for the night.

On the final full day of the break we decided to explore the coast to the left of the site, and caught a bus to Crail. Again the weather was very nice. Finn, for the first time objected to getting on another bus, given that the speed they travel along the coastal road at had been throwing him about. Again we had foregone breakfast and were looking to eat as we entered the village. We had been told of a restaurant called the Shoregate https://theshoregate.com, and we knew that there was a bus stop there. Again, displaying our ignorance of how to travel on buses, we got off one stop too early and had to walk the final bit of the journey there.

We arrived there at 11.30am and the Shoregate didn't start their lunch service until 12.00pm. We pondered what to do, and noticed that the road opposite led to the harbour, and wondered if a bite to eat was available there. We set off down the slope which got very steep in places, and passed the Crail Harbour Gallery, which we had been told was good for cakes and snacks. Unfortunately it didn't appear to be dog friendly and was very busy, so we gave it a wide berth. We then walked further down to Crail beach, but as Sue did not have appropriate footwear on we decided not to go onto the sand. I then noticed on the harbour The Lobster Hut, which was offering takeaway seafood, crab sandwiches etc, but again the queue was too long for our liking. We then decided to walk back up to the Shoregate, which when we arrived there was open.

We were led into the back bar, where Finn was able to join us as we ate, and we ordered local craft beers and lager. We also decided that their sandwiches would make an ideal breakfast, they were delicious. When we entered the pub the sun was shining, and when we left a sea fret had moved in and dulled the day and lowered the temperature. We decided to explore what else Crail had to offer, but first supplies were obtained in the Cooperative store we discovered, unfortunately I overlooked buying food for the following day's breakfast. After a while we came across Crail Pottery where Sue bought a large jug to display in our kitchen. Finn and I sat outside whilst she transacted her business. With the day getting colder and the mist rolling in we decided that we would catch a bus back to the site. When we found the bus stop three local girls told us that there was a bus due within minutes, but first I decided that my earlier beer intake necessitated a visit to the loo, and I returned to the Shoregate to return the beer to them! Luckily my actions did not result in our missing the bus, which arrived within minutes, and we were soon back at the site where we reported to Carol, and updated her of our exploits.

I then turned my attention to storing the table and chairs away, which had been outside for the whole of our break, and then I thought of food again!

Soon I was tucking in to the microwave meal that I had bought myself in the Cooperative shop, and washing my final meal in Crail down with a bottle of craft beer. after that we settled down to our last night of the break.

The next morning the sea fret was still dulling the sky and the temperature was not too high. The condensation had left the grass very wet, and my shoes suffered as I walked to and fro dealing with all the jobs necessary for our departure. Carol was very helpful in our maneuvering out of the pitch and the site. We would definitely return to the site again.