Edinburgh June 2023

As we’d both been to Edinburgh before, many times, and had a good time, we were looking forward to our trip. In order not to arrive before the 1.00pm admission time we decided to stop off in Carlisle on our way up to the site, and I visited the new Lidl store to buy some provisions. Not being aware of the layout of this new store I spent a lot of time searching for the items I needed, I spent so long that Sue was on the verge of coming into the store herself to check that I was well. She is always on edge that I’ve had a seizure when I’m overdue.

Well stocked up with wine, cider and salad ingredients we continued on our trip North.

After an uneventful journey we arrived at the site at Silverknowe https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/club-sites/scotland/edinburgh/edinburgh-club-campsite/ just before 3.00pm and chose pitch number 37, and Sue deftly reversed into the gap between the two white markers. Thereafter I set to connecting the electricity, and switching on the gas before I rang a taxi firm to arrange transport to the Kings Wark https://www.facebook.com/thekingswark in Leith for our pre-booked evening meal. In order to occupy ourselves before our trip to Leith we took a short walk from the site to the beach and we’re happy to find a well placed walkway along by the shore. The views across the Firth of Forth were excellent. The only downside to the day were the jets, one every 8 minutes, lining up overhead to land at Edinburgh airport (by the time we left the site 5 days later we had become so accustomed to the noise that we no longer noticed it). After a brief look at the beach area we returned to the motorhome to prepare ourselves for our evening out.

The taxi turned up promptly, and the driver, with an interest in motorhomes, dropped us outside the Kings Wark in good time. On the journey he also told us of an interesting walk along the seafront to a pub and a harbour, and we decided to do that the following day. After paying our driver we stepped into the Kings Wark, which had at one time been the residence and armoury of James 1st, it had also been a plague hospital, but on the night of our visit it looked no more different than your average pub/restaurant. The food and service were of a high standard, and, as usual, Finn was spoilt rotten.

The Kings Wark is located in a part of Leith known as the Shore, which has a number of bars and restaurants with outside seating. From our table inside the Kings Wark we could see through the window the throngs of people eating, drinking and strolling along, and we decided part way through our meal that we would join them later.

With our meal complete we left the pub and crossed the busy road to follow the Shore, by which time it had quietened down, and our feeling of excitement at being at such a busy place had subsided. We then thought about how we were going to get back to the motorhome, on this, our first night. I found a window ledge, upon which to set out my belongings, and took my phone out to ring the same cab firm to organise our return trip. The controller knew who we were, and where to pick us up, and within minutes we were being whisked back to the Silverknowe campsite. The end of day one went smoothly.

We woke up again to a perfect summers day, and after washing the dishes and disposing of the previous days rubbish we set out upon a trip along the beach. After walking along the road for a while we decided to join the promenade by the sea, and joined the walkers, joggers and cyclists on the wide byway provided. Occasionally, a cyclist, with his personal music playing too loud would disrupt the peace (other than the overhead jets, which by now we had become accustomed to!). There was a stage when the shadows of the jets passing overhead were very marked. There were many meetings between Finn and other dogs being walked along the way. After walking a couple of miles or so we came across an ice cream van parked on a harbour side at Cramond. Being suitably hydrated by the walk I began looking for the promised pub. I found it tucked away a couple of streets behind the harbour, and our quest for a cider and a snack began. When we arrived at the pub, disappointingly, we found it was not dog friendly, and as it had a pretty decent lunch/snack menu, we were again let down, to be told that they did not have enough staff on to serve food outside. Yet again, we feasted on cider and cheese and onion crisps, and in despair Sue rushed off to treat herself with an ice cream whilst I sneaked another cider in. If we’d bothered to explore Cramond further we would have found the Cramond Bistro https://www.cramondbistro.co.uk, which, although it doesn’t state on it’s website whether it’s dog friendly or not, would have provided a more welcoming atmosphere. I have also found out that we missed a visit to Cramond Falls as we returned, in a huff, to the motorhome. The walk back always seems that much shorter, and as we neared the place where we had joined the walkway we came across a café where a saxophonist and a guitarist were playing some very entertaining/basic jazz. We enjoyed tea/coffee and blueberry muffins listening to the music and taking in the terrific views across the sea. It was then, back to the motorhome, with the awning down, and white wine in hand, to watch the day while away until I went online to order our evening meal from Wagamama’s (japanese!), which neither of us had ever had experience of before.

I followed on my Ipad the process of the cooking, and of the delivery until I went to the reception of the site to pick the meal up. Although the website gives the impression that your meal is being delivered by bicycle ours turned up in a red hatchback.

I had, as usual, ordered an additional spicy sauce, to spice up my ‘Chicken Firecracker Curry’ and enjoyed a proper spicy meal. Sue thoroughly enjoyed her meal too. There ended day two of our Edinburgh trip.

As we’d already taken the time (on the previous day) to walk and time the distance to the bus stop we’d decided that we would, on this our third day, take the bus into Leith. After a relaxed morning (washing up and rubbish disposal done), and with the timetable memorised, we set off from the site, down a narrow country path, across into Silverknowe to catch the 16 into Leith. Everyone at the bus stop was friendly, and we were even advised to download the Lothian Buses App, which provides details of the next available bus. After a short wait at the bus stop the number 16 arrived, and, to my surprise, everyone deferred to us as we had been first at the stop, so we were first on board. This show of manners was not isolated, as I noticed at every stop a similar protocol was observed. I was not expecting this from a city, it had not been my experience in my time in London.

The journey on the bus was longer than I had imagined it to be, and I was eagerly looking for the King’s Wark in order to determine where we should disembark the bus. Soon it appeared and we got off the bus across the bridge from the pub and began a walk along side the water towards the quays. We passed the Fingal ship https://www.fingal.co.uk, now a luxury boutique hotel, moored on the Shore. We walked as far as the new building project of luxury apartments by the quays before turning around to explore the Shore further inland.

By this time breakfast seemed so far away and a refreshment stop was called for. We noticed, an soon occupied, an empty table at the Malt and Hops https://www.facebook.com/realaleleith, opposite the Fingal and ordered toasted sandwiches and drinks. Whilst we were waiting for our refreshments we were curious to see what sort of people the Fingal attracted, and we compared their standard of dress with the other people walking up and down the Shore. Whilst we were there I took the opportunity to ask the waitress where the Tapa wine bar and diner was, as we had a table booked there that evening for tea. She had a high opinion of the food there, and gave us detailed directions as to how to get there. As usual, Finn was spoilt rotten and given treats.

When we had finished our food we were presented with a bill that was, in my opinion, rather high for sandwiches and drinks, but the location obviously warranted the premium. Biting my lip I paid the amount, noticing that a service charge had already been included. We then walked further inland, past the Kings Wark, and found the sign for the Water of Leith walk, a 13 mile walkway that begins at Balerno, and travels through Edinburgh to the Shore at Leith.

We set off on an adventure on the path, but given that we had an early meal booked at the Tapa https://tapaedinburgh.co.uk we did not have much time. We had travelled a few hundred yards down the path when we decided to abort our mission, due to the less than salubrious characters also enjoying the path, and the overgrown vegetation that was encroaching upon us. We also noticed at one stage a couple of swans with a number of cygnets. Noting how protective they can be of their young, and being sure that Finn would take an unhealthy interest in them we kept him away from the waterside edge, and headed back to the Shore.

We now had an hour or so to kill before our reservation at the restaurant, so we briefly looked around the shops, and bought some much needed kitchen roll, before taking refuge at a table outside the Innis and Gunn taproom. This pub is next door to the Michelin starred restaurant, Martin Wishart, which we hadn’t booked for tea, as it hadn’t appeared on the list of dog friendly establishments in Leith. After using up the time people watching we were nearing the time of our reservation, and after deciding that we wouldn’t be admonished for arriving early, we set off for the Tapa. Again, Finn was fussed over as we entered, and they arranged for a rug and a water bowl for him under our table. For once, a U.K. tapas bar served tapas of the correct proportions, as you’re often provided, in the U.K., with standard sized dishes with convoluted a Spanish description. The food was very good, and Spanish, I am confident of that as I have eaten in Spain on numerous occasions. The dishes with the correct Spanish title were as of those I have eaten on my overseas trips. We were very pleased with our meal and made our way back to the bus stop once we were ready to go. Upon our departure a Spanish guitarist was setting up to serenade the diners. I asked him to play ‘Recuerdos de La Alhambra’, a well known Spanish guitar piece which requires a certain level of competence. He started playing it as we were at the door. We walked back to the road opposite the stop that we had left the bus earlier in the day and we’re shortly rewarded with a number 16 appearing around the corner.

The trip back on the bus seemed quicker than the one we had taken that morning, and we were quickly back at the bus stop, with the walk back along the track to the site ahead of us.

Ten minutes later we were back in the motorhome settling down for the night, planning for the day in Edinburgh city centre ahead of us.

Next morning the weather was kind again, it seemed like an age since we had seen any rain, and we breakfasted, dealt with all the jobs and then decided to make our way to reception to catch the minibus to Edinburgh city centre. We had planned on catching the 11.30am service, and were at the stop by that time, but by the time we had sat onboard chatting with Graham, the driver, we discovered that we were on the 12.00pm service. Graham was a very chatty, knowledgable man, who unfortunately had/was suffering from a number of health issues. We were the only passengers on our trip, and he kept us up to date on all the interesting sites we were passing, including the building used as the school in Harry Potter. He dropped us in the West End, not very far from Princess Street, and we waved him off, arranging a pickup/return at 5.00pm.

From there we ventured onto a very busy Princess Street noting to watch the green man as we crossed the road. Coming from a very quiet village in Cumbria such things are very alien to us. As I’d been suffering from sweaty feet, when I noticed, as we passed the Mountain Warehouse, the sale they had on sandals, I was enticed inside to find a pair in my size. After a while I had bought a pair along with an antibacterial spray, and we returned to Princess Street, where I looked for a suitable spot to change my footwear.

Sue had mentioned that she needed to visit a Boots store, and as we came upon one, myself and Finn sheltered from the sun in a nearby bus stop whilst Sue went shopping. With all our purchases taken care of I carried our shopping up the slopes and steps to the old town, and we surfaced, breathless, out from a tunnel, onto the Royal Mile. Luckily, we were just outside the ‘Ensign Ewart’ a pub, and, as we were to make no progress in the mass of bodies, we entered for refreshments. The sunshine was so bright outside that when we entered the pub it was like walking into a black hole. Luckily we managed to find an empty table, as the pub was so busy, and soon had drinks and food ordered. Again Finn was fussed over by both the staff and customers. After we had finished our fare we were given a bill that made the one from the previous day seem like pennies. Suitably sated we rejoined the throng on the Royal Mile. There had been a March, with pipers, that day, and what looked like a wedding nearby, which explained the crowds. We searched around, and found the Upper Bow, which after descending the steps took us down to The Grassmarket. I had fond memories of this area as I’d partied here a few times before rugby matches at Murrayfield, and I tried to recall the public houses that I had frequented. We stopped at the bottom of The Grassmarket and took a picture of a wonderful lysteria that was flowing down a building. From there we took the Kings Stables Road to rejoin Princess Street, from where we decided to explore the delights of Rose Street. We started at the first bar, the delightfully named ‘Fierce Bar’, where we sat in the sun with the obligatory cider in hand. After we had been burnt enough by the sun we decided to move on to find a table outside a bar, in the shade, across the street, and set off for a walk. Partway down Rose Street Sue found a shop selling dance clothes and footwear. I encouraged her to explore the wares whilst I planned to take Finn and sit outside a nearby bar. She would have none of it. We carried on our search for a table in the shade and eventually came across Veeno, the last bar/restaurant on that section of Rose Street. It was a Mediterranean themed restaurant, and they deigned to us taking up an outside table for a drink. Once sat, we looked at the menu, and decided that a small snack of garlic bread was in order. It was delightful. After paying our bill, and with the time on our mind we set off in the direction of the West End, for our lift home. On the way we stopped of at a Co-op to purchase a bottle of wine to wash down that evenings tea.

We arrived at the pre-arranged spot with time to spare, where we met a couple, booked onto the 6.00pm trip, but hoping to get back an hour earlier. They had hoped to get into Edinburgh Castle but hadn’t booked, and were disappointed. They had booked to return to the castle the next day. Graham was happy to take all of us when he arrived, and after a pleasant trip back our thoughts turned to our evening meal. I again ordered a Japanese meal online, and whilst I waited I arranged the table and chairs outside, on the side of the motorhome in the shade, as it was still hot in the sun. As before the meal came by car even though the graphic on the website gave the impression that a cyclist was delivering our food. The food was equally as good as before, and was washed down by a bottle of Amarone, as a treat. We then settled down for the night, with plans of a day by the beach the following day.

It wasn’t to be as we awoke to a rainy day on the Sunday. It rained persistently all day, and a day by the TV was called for. I learnt a lot that day about Perseus, Andromeda, Medusa and Pegasus as the Greek legend was shown as a feature length film. Luckily the rain ceased in the late afternoon just in time for us to walk to the bus stop for our journey to the Old Chain Pier https://www.oldchainpier.com in Newhaven for our last evening meal, which was a birthday celebration for me. The Old Chain Pier is ideally situated on the seafront with excellent views across the Firth of Forth. I entertained myself watching a couple of fishermen in a small boat, as they flitted about looking for a better catch. The food was very good, with Sue having a Cullen Skink whilst I partook of a Balmoral Burger, a house special including chicken and a whisky sauce. Finn was fussed over as usual. As luck would have it the bus stop for the return trip was just over the road from the restaurant.

The next morning was our last, and as we did not have to leave the site until 12.00pm we had a leisurely breakfast then set to on disconnecting, disposing of our litter and washing up.   

We then left the site on time and travelled an alternative route back home. I must say that I won’t miss the jets every 8 minutes, but other than that it was a different stay in Edinburgh, in that we only visited the city once, whilst we enjoyed the coast of Silverknowe, Newhaven and Leith. I would go again.