Braithwaite - The Lake District
- Paul Kendall
- Feb 19, 2024
- 8 min read
November 2021

Upon reading the Camping and Caravan Club magazine upon our return from Hoddom I came across an article that highly rated a site in Braithwaite in Cumbria, and decided that a visit there would be in order.
The site is not very far from our home so on a quiet day we decided to travel there for a preliminary visit and to enquire what apparatus we would need to connect up to the 'Super Site' we had booked.
Unfortunately we were unable to enter the site due to Covid restrictions, but the staff were very helpful in dealing with our queries. Whilst we were there we thought that we would research the facilities available at the nearby pubs.
First we thought we'd try the Royal Oak, it being the nearest pub, but were disappointed to find out that they were not dog friendly. The staff, however, were helpful in telling us that the nearby Coledale Inn permitted dogs on their premises. we then wandered up the hill out of town, where we enjoyed an excellent meal at the Coledale.
We then explored the lay of the ground in preparation of our stay in November.
We did worry, however, when the excessive rain at the end of October caused flooding in the lake District, which affected the site, as we had thought that our holiday had been washed away. We waited, on tenterhooks, for the floodwaters to ebb away. By November the conditions had improved significantly.
So with the builders engaged in a major refit of our kitchen we battled through an obstacle course of power tools and piles of wood in order to load the motorhome with the necessities we would need for our mini break at Braithwaite Village camp site, near to Keswick https://bit.ly/4c5pbdU . Given that this was our third trip we were more educated in what we needed to take, and the space in the motorhome was soon filled with the basic essentials.
Given that Braithwaite is only 45 minutes away from where we live there was no urgency to set off to reach the destination within a deadline. However as it was November, with daylight fading fast in the late afternoon we decided to get there before darkness, and set off soon after lunch with the aim of arriving mid afternoon. With Finn installed in his bed just behind the cab seats we set off and left the house to the builders for the next few days.
After an uneventful trip across the A66 we arrived and were greeted by the site's staff and were given a choice of pitch for our stay. The site is exceptional in a number of ways, but mainly because of its situation with fantastic views of the nearby mountains. We chose the 'Super Pitch' 11 with great views up to Whinlatter and began to set up for our stay. The site is designated as 'Super' because it provides electrical and water hook up with a separate waste water drain and TV aeriel connection.
The first job to complete, whilst all the time ensuring Finn could not escape through the door to explore the site on his own, was to connect up the electrics. Although I thought that I had mastered this task following our earlier trips I was unable to obtain an electric supply. I also discovered that the waste water pipe that I had purchased on Amazon was not long enough to reach from the outlet to the fixed drain in the ground. In addition, whilst underperforming in the above tasks, I discovered that I was unable to obtain a TV signal, as we did not have a co-ax cable to join onto the site's aeriel. Sue was becoming very unimpressed with my achievements and all the time I was suppressing a feeling of negativity and wishing to return home.
I have omitted to say that all the while it was raining, which was further lowering my mood and a drink of tea was becoming a necessity. In order to make this happen the gas would need to be turned on. After finding my glasses I successfully connected the gas, the first victory of the day!
This is maybe the time to look at the options there are regarding gas for motorhomes. Using liquified petroleum gas (LPG) is a flexible and convenient way to provide heating, cooking and refrigeration facilities on board motorhomes and caravans. Propane and butane are LPG products, and they each have slightly different characteristics. Propane gas can be used with a larger number of appliances, and can be used in sub zero temperatures whereas butane is not as efficient in the cold. It is thought that you get more energy from a butane cylinder than a propane one of the same volume. Whilst some motorhomes use gas bottles for their gas purposes others have underslung, fixed on board tanks. The tanks tend to be bigger so rarely run out, but it is becoming more difficult to find a garage that has LPG pumps to fill up the tanks. On the other hand the availability of gas bottles is not what it was.
I include a link here to the Camping and Caravan club's page on this topic https://bit.ly/3TgOWzp in order that you can decide which option would be best for you. On our current Elldis Accordo 125 we have a tank, which was fitted by the previous owner as an extra. We have only had to fill this tank up once since we've had the motorhome.
Back to the tale, duly cheered up following a cuppa I decided to investigate the electrical hook up, and discovered that unlike the previous hook ups I had come across that there was a separate on/off lever built into the top of this hook up post.
After switching the lever our electrical problems were resolved, and the rain was easing! Things were looking up, and we decided to take a walk into Braithwaite, mainly to grab an early tea at the Coledale Inn, a pub that we had discovered on an earlier visit. Given the fading light a torch was considered essential, and with Sue wearing her new 'holiday' coat with reflective hood and sleeves, to make us more visible to motorists, we set off into the darkness.
After a good meal and drink in the pub we returned to the darkness and make our way back to the motorhome to watch a Netflix film and an early night.
Disappointingly, when we awake on the second day of our break the rain is beating down on the skylight above our heads. We can't let the rain beat us, we need to get out.
With no supplies of bacon on board it is not a question whether we visited the nearby cafe, Jaspers, for breakfast. So after donning our waterproofs we set out into the rain (the Lake District wouldn't be there without it!).
After enjoying a massive bacon buttie and a cup of tea we set off to the village shop to buy a bottle of red wine to help us while away the second night of our break. As the rain begins to ease we take the opportunity to explore Braithwaite further, but it appears that in November there is very little activity in the village so we take refuge in the Coledale Inn, after discovering a shortcut there.
Following a light lunch there we return to the motorhome to settle in to an onboard meal, with wine, and an early night. All the time the views out of the motorhome windows were excellent. Again we fight with the cushions and bedding to make a bed up for the night, with Finn again chosing a cosy spot for himself.
The third day dawn welcomes the sun, and the world looks so much better. Today is going to be an active day.
As we are lucky enough to live nearby we are aware of the Lingholm Kitchen and Walled Garden, about two miles away, and decide to walk there for, wait for it, a bacon buttie.
The first mile of the walk is along side the A66, a busy trunk road, which is not so enjoyable. This is, however, made up for by the second half of the walk taking us through the pretty village of Portinscale and along the shore of Derwent Water, and through nearby forests.
When we arrive at Lingholm we find it much busier than on our earlier trips, it appears that the world has discovered our little secret! Given the good weather we have no objection to sitting on the seating outside, and are quickly served with our order, which includes the obligatory bacon sandwich. With our food wolfed down we wander around the gardens before we take it upon us to undertake an epic walk to Keswick, back through Portinscale, as we had booked an evening meal in Keswick.
We arrived in Keswick with an hour or two to kill before our meal, and decided to while away our time in the Dog and Gun pub, sampling Lakeland ales. After a quick stop at the shops for some more essentials, probably chocolate, bacon and alcohol, we entered a very crowded George Hotel just in time for our meal. We were unaware that we were visiting Keswick on the same weekend as a vintage car rally, which explained the crowds.
Once we were shown to our table a rather portly Maitre D ran through the menu with us, all the time trying to tempt us to opt for the half portion of their cow pie (apparently, if one can eat a whole one they get their meal for free!).
With our sensible heads on we opt for two regular meals, which we race through as we'd laid ourselves bare to the local bus timetable, to enable us to make a timely return to the motorhome. So with minutes to spare we make our way to the local bus terminus, however our haste is all in vain. After we'd had waited a long time there was no sign of the bus.
Impetuously, I flag to a passing taxi driver, who is happy to return us to Braithwaite. Interestingly, I knew the individual who had set up the actual taxi firm transporting us. Finn takes to, yet another, taxi ride well. We arrive back in good time and set to settling down for the night.
The next day we awake to rain again hammering down on the rooflights, and settle down to breakfast on board. The weather is filthy and not conducive to walking, although the forecast is for it to brighten up later in the day. We wait for the rain to stop, and then decide to be adventurous and take on the nearby mountain, and follow the road up and out of Braithwaite.
The walk is not too strenuous, and the views that open up are spectacular. We meet a number of walkers (some with dogs) along the way. Unfortunately, as we progress up the slopes the skies darken, and the threat of rain returns. We decide to cut the walk short, and treat ourselves to a Sunday lunch at the nearby Coledale Inn. This turns out to be a big mistake as I am served the worst Sunday lunch I have ever had, with the beef too undercooked to cut, swimming in a sea of thin gravy. However, the pub is full of amiable dog owners also out for a walk, and our time there is very enjoyable.
We await for the rain to ease, and make a speedy return to the motorhome where we cook ourselves an evening meal and settle down for an early night, and a fight with the cushions as we construct the bed.
Next morning is our last at Braithwaite and we have mixed feelings about leaving the site. We have enjoyed our motorhome holiday and have been impressed by the location of the Braithwaite site, but the inclement weather has forced us to spend a lot of our time under cover. We also have a new kitchen construction back at home to inspect on our return, and are eager to see what progress has been made there.
After a quick breakfast we unhitch ourselves from the services and deal with the sanitary procedures to ensure we're away from our pitch before the deadline of 12.00pm.
We're sure to return here when the weather is better, but so will everyone else, given the location.
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